Roofing

Three signs your roof won't make it through another winter

Granules in the gutters, curling shingles, and daylight through the decking. Each one gets more expensive to ignore once there is snow load and freeze-thaw working against it.

1. Granules collecting in the gutters

The grit on an asphalt shingle isn't decoration. It's the layer that takes the UV hit and keeps the asphalt underneath from drying out. As it wears off, the asphalt goes brittle, and brittle shingles crack when they're worked by freeze-thaw cycling — which up here happens dozens of times a winter, not once.

A little granule loss on a brand-new roof is normal, left over from installation. Piles of grit in the gutters on a roof that's fifteen or twenty years old is the roof telling you where it is in its life. Look in the gutters and at the bottom of the downspouts.

2. Shingles curling or cupping at the edges

Curled edges are a wind problem before they're a water problem. Once an edge lifts, wind gets underneath it, and each gust works the shingle looser. Then snow and ice pack into the gap and freeze, which pries it further.

Worth knowing: widespread curling often points at attic heat and poor ventilation rather than age alone. If the shingles are cooking from underneath, a new roof over the same attic will do the same thing. That's a conversation worth having before you pay for shingles.

3. Daylight through the roof decking

This one's free to check. Go into the attic on a bright day and turn the lights off. Give your eyes a minute, then look up. Pinholes of daylight mean a gap where water can follow.

While you're up there, look at the underside of the decking for dark staining, and at the nail heads for rust. Both point at moisture, though sometimes that's condensation from a ventilation problem rather than a leak — which is still worth fixing, just a different job.

The ones people miss

Most roof leaks we chase down aren't in the middle of a shingle field. They're at the transitions:

  • Flashing where the roof meets a chimney, a dormer, or a wall. Old caulk and lifted step flashing are common.
  • Boots around plumbing vents. The rubber collar dries out and splits, usually somewhere around ten to fifteen years, well before the shingles are finished.
  • Ridge cap and valleys, which take the most water volume and the most wind.

Any of those can leak on a roof that otherwise has years left in it. That's good news — it means a repair, not a replacement.

Repair or replace

It comes down to age and how widespread the problem is. A twelve-year-old roof with one bad valley is a repair, and anyone telling you otherwise is selling. A twenty-two-year-old roof shedding granules across every slope is a replacement, and the useful thing to do is plan and budget for it on your own schedule rather than have February decide for you.

If there's storm damage involved, photograph it before anything gets touched and note the date of the storm. That documentation is what an insurance claim turns on, and it's much harder to reconstruct after the fact.

Why the timing matters here

Asphalt shingles seal to each other with heat. Installed in cold weather they don't bond the same way, and they stay vulnerable to wind until there's enough warm sun to set them. That's why roofing calendars up here fill through the fall, and why work in the depth of winter is patching rather than proper repair.

If any of the three signs above are showing, getting eyes on it in September or October keeps your options open. By December the option is a tarp.

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